If you play sports, custom cleats are hands-down the best way to stand out on the field. This article is for synthetic material cleats. If you have leather cleats, please follow our Customizing on Leather article. Of all of the materials to customize on, cleats are the most difficult due how smooth and hard the surface is. These surfaces aren’t ideal for paint, so we will have to do extra prep sanding and using adhesion promoter. Heel tabs and plastic parts are treated the same way, so all tips apply to those materials as well. As is for all of our standards, we will first tell you what materials you need, then show just the steps as a “too long, didn’t read” (TL:DR), go over the 3P’s (preparation, painting, and preservation), list our tips, include links to useful videos, and end with links to where you can buy products (and view prices).
Most of the tips in this article are taken from DeJesus Custom Footwear’s video. This is the best cleats tutorial on the internet and we recommend watching it in conjunction with this article. Also check out their webpage for custom shoes, cleaning products, and information.
If you are buying Angelus products from reading this article, please help us out and use this link: https://bit.ly/2K8UmHb.
- Clean shoes.
- Remove laces.
- Use a scotch bright pad and scrub the surfaces you are going to paint with acetone or Angelus Leather Prep and Deglazer.
- Hand sand or use a detail sander (preferred) over the same areas using 400-600, then 600-800, then 1400-1600 grit sandpaper.
- Use cotton balls or a rag in acetone or water to remove the debris.
- Tape off areas not being painted.
- 2 coats of adhesion Bulldog Adhesion Promoter or SEM Sand-Free
- 4-6 coats of paint with Angelus or Jacquard airbrush paint.
- Finish with Angelus Acrylic Finisher, Treehouse Matte Clear Acrylic Coating or Krylon Matte Finisher.
Watch this video:
Before you start and project you should make sure the shoes are clean or new. Shoe cleaners we recommend are Reshovn8r, Angelus Shoe Cleaner, and Jason Markk. Before you start cleaning, remove the laces (you can clean them separately in a cup with some cleaner).
The next step is to remove the factory coating by dipping a scotch bright pad (or the back of a sponge) into acetone or Angelus Leather Prep & Deglazer. Really go at it, as these surfaces are used to taking a beating. Be careful with the color coming off of the scotch bright pad. Wipe it away with some cotton balls in acetone and don’t get it on the sock liner or mesh material as it will be hard to remove or paint over.
Use a scotch bright pad with acetone to begin preparing the surface.
After going over the surfaces a few times, you will have to sand with 3 different grit sandpapers. Start with 400-600, then use 600-800, and finish with 1400-1600. If you are going to be doing multiple projects, we highly recommend buying a detail/ palm sander. If you can’t find the right grit sand paper to match your sander, just buy normal paper and use double-sided tape to stick it to your sander.
Using a detail sander during prep work.
After sanding is done, wipe off any debris with a cloth or cotton balls dipped in water or acetone/ deglazer.
Once the surface is prepped, mask of any areas that you don’t want paint. Read our article on Customizing Tape (coming soon) for details on which tape to use where.
Completed tape job.
After taping is complete, you will need to spray a couple of coats of Bulldog Adhesion Promoter or SEM Sand-Free. You will want to spray this in a highly ventilated area or outside. You will also need to start painting right after the adhesion promoters dry (5mins) because they’re only effective for a limited time (less than 24 hrs).
Spraying on 2 coats of adhesion promoter.
I like to prepare my paint ahead of time, but you can do it just before applying the paint as well. If I’m airbrushing with Angelus or DecoArt, I’ll mix my paint with Angelus 2-thin (4:1 ratio of paint:2-thin) and run it through a strainer into a 1oz jar (or you can strain directly into your airbrush. Don’t skip the straining step or your airbrush will get clogged very quickly and the spray coming out will be uneven or clumpy.
Straining a mixture of Angelus and 2-thin into my airbrush.
If you are using Jacquard airbrush paint, you’re good to go and no prep is needed. You can pour it into a jar, palette, or dip a brush into it if you want to brush on the paint (i.e. touch up work). If you want to use a brush, Jacquard’s Neopaque and Lemiere lines will work.
A budget-minded brand we tested is DecoArt. Their Stylin line works well. It’s about half the price but the downside is they have limited colors to choose from and it’s a bit thicker than Angelus.
For a new person painting on customs the first thing you should realize is that you will need to paint in thin layers. You can’t simply paint once and be done. We recommend you do 4-6 layers, depending on how well your paint is laying down and the colors you’re using (light colors or neons may require more layers). Using thin layers will keep your paint from clumping and cracking. Don’t be alarmed if the first layer you apply is blotchy or has tiny gaps showing. As you add more layers the colors will apply evenly and gaps will be filled. Below is an example of what it looks like as you add more layers (example is shown on leather for clarity, but it’s the same result on synthetic materials). Notice that after the first layer the paint looks streaky and you can see the white background color. After the second layer it is still blotchy. This is fine, keep applying those thin layers! By the 3rd layer it looks pretty even. The 4th layer will look like the actual color you want and appear mostly perfect. I usually do 1-2 more layers after it looks perfect, just to be sure after drying it will stay that way.
Example of 1, 2, 3, and 5 layers of paint.
In order to use thin layers, don’t glob the paint onto your brush. Just pull up enough so you can place a bit of the paint down and spread it out thinly. Use the brush as a spreading tool with the goal of making the paint apply thinly and evenly. You can use a hair dryer or heat gun between coats to make it dry faster. Be careful not to make it too hot or the paint may burn and change color.
If you are using stencils, check out our article on how to use them.
I like to start out with big brushes to do large areas and then use smaller or angled brushes near edges. It’s a good idea to reserve 1-2 hours at the end of painting to clean up all of the detailed edges (after removing the masking tape). If you used a stencil, this step is crucial for getting those crisp lines and perfect images.
If you are airbrushing, use about 30-35 psi (may vary by pump and airbrush brand) and do very thin coats. Do 4-6 coats and use a heat gun to speed up drying in between coats. If using stencils, be sure not to over-saturate an area and spray directly perpendicular so that paint doesn’t seep underneath the stencil. Applying thin coats will also help keep paint from seeping underneath. Between colors, clean your airbrush and spray onto a paper towel to make sure no old paint comes out.
First coat of airbrushing. More coats are needed for full color.
Now that you’re done painting you will need to let it dry or expedite the process with a hair dryer or heat gun. Be careful not to burn the paint with the heat gun.
Final cleats (before finisher).
Applying 1-2 thin layers of finisher will protect your artwork and make them scuff resistant. We recommend you use brush-on finisher over a spray because you have more control and guaranteed coverage of every area. We suggest Angelus Acrylic Finisher. If you want to use a spray finisher, brands we trust are Treehouse Matte Clear Acrylic Coating and Krylon Matte Finisher. Tip: before spraying, always shake the canister and do a few sprays away from the shoe because it sometimes the liquid settles and gives a foggy effect for the first few sprays, which will ruin your shoes.
The most popular finisher type is matte finish, but you can also use gloss or satin finishes. For gloss we recommend Sargent Art Gloss Finisher brush on or Krylon Crystal Clear spray on. For a satin look we recommend Angelus Satin Acrylic Finisher.
Difference in finishes. Taken from www.Angelusdirect.com.
Allow your finisher to dry at least 2 hours but preferably 24 hours.
- Start with lighter colors because darker colors are better to use for touch-up. If you are airbrushing a fade, you should use dark colors first because overspray from dark colors will ruin your light colors if laid down afterwards.
- Thin layers are better. Thick layers can lead to the paint cracking, so put just enough paint on your brush to spread thin onto the leather. If it dries with tiny gaps or faded looking colors it’s ok, you can put on more thin layers until it looks uniform.
- Now is a good opportunity to get used to different brushes, angles, and brush strokes. For large areas, use the biggest brush you have, but make sure you are spreading it evenly and not too thick. Angle brushes are perfect for doing fades. Fades can be achieved by using two brushes with the paints you want to fade and blending them into each other. Make sure the paint you are trying to blend is still wet. Flat brushes are great for edges and everything else.
- It’s a good idea to paint across the toe box (in the across-the-toes direction) because that area flexes more than anywhere else on the shoe. Having the paint flex in the same direction as the shoe will reduce chances of cracking. If your pattern doesn’t lend itself to painting across-the-toes don’t worry about it, it’s a minimal effect.
- Use those detail brushes at the end. The key to a professional looking shoe is having clean edges, artwork, and images.
- Excess paint on the soles can be cleaned up with acetone (nail polish remover) or isopropyl alcohol and a cotton swab or q-tip.
- Denatured alcohol can be used to “erase” a layer or two of paint at a time. This is useful if you have accidental paint on your shoe, but don’t want to remove a base layer you painted on behind it.
- Proper brush care will extend the life of your brushes. Don’t allow the paint to dry on the brush. Always put it in some water and rinse it around. If you are switching colors, repeatedly rinse until nothing comes off while drying your brush on a paper towel. After you are done working, brushes can be washed using a brush cleaner (we recommend Masterbrush Cleaner), soapy water, or shampoo. Do not store your brushes head-down or in water or solvent.
Article and Video Links
- There are no good articles currently online
- There are a lot of VERY BAD custom cleats videos. Do NOT trust them. Your paint will rub off or crack.
- Best video: DeJesus Custom Footwear’s video
- Shoe Cleaners
- Jacquard Paint
- Angelus Paint ($2.95, 1oz)
- Paint strainer ($8.95)
- 1oz jars 16 pack ($12.99)
- Heat Gun, Furno 300 ($19.98)
- Ryobi Detail Sander ($39.97)
- Adhesion promoters
- Stencil purchase sites
- Silhouette Cameo for making stencils ($203.99)
- Vinyl sheets for stencils (Oracal 651) ($7.95 for 12”x10’)
- Heat transfer vinyl sheets (Thermoflex) ($14.50 for 15”x3’)
- Transfer Paper ($15.99 for 12”x50’)
- Matte brush-on
- Matte spray can
- Gloss brush on
- Sargent Art Gloss Finisher ($5.00, 2oz)
- Gloss spray can
- Krylon Crystal Clear (9.04, 6oz)
- Satin brush-on
- Angelus Satin Acrylic Finisher ($4.07, 4oz)
- Masterbrush Cleaner ($8.71, 2.5oz)